The rise of calico originated in the middle of the 17th century within England. The people, notably the upper classes, wanted elegant and lighter clothing. However, English weavers could not meet this demand and French imports were banned, as a result of nationalist sentiment and response to the French banning British imports. Thus, cloth from the colony of India was imported. [1] The name of “calico” derives from the Indian town of Calicut where the cotton cloth was first made.[2] The plain white cloth was imprinted on with colorful patterns with engraved blocks or rollers. There were many different parts of the process, each employed with different workers. Fieldmen were unskilled day laborers who whitened the calicoes. Drawers invented the patterns, originally copying Indian designs. Cutters engraved these designs on wood (before copper rollers took over) for the use of printers, who made the first impressions of color on the cloth.[3] Finally, rounders, usually female, put the finishing touches on the cloth.[4]

            Calico manufacturing was a big business in the United States, not just within Britain. Notable hubs for this business in the 19th century were Fall River and Lowell, both cities in Massachusetts. [5]   Calico’s popularity, as both for use in furniture and dress, is seen in how individuals mentioned in Isaac T. Hopper’s were employed in the business of its printing. For example, on page 159 of manuscript 2, Hopper describes Daniel Smith McIntosh as previously employed in the business when he resided in Rhode Island and before he committed any crimes.

[1] Parakunnel J. Thomas, "The Beginnings of Calico-Printing in England1," The English Historical Review XXXIX, no. CLIV (1924): 206, doi:10.1093/ehr/xxxix.cliv.206.

[2] "Calico Printing." Scientific American 41, no. 25 (1879): 401. http://www.jstor.org/stable/26072386.

[3] Ibid.

[4] Parakunnel J. Thomas, "The Beginnings of Calico-Printing in England1," The English Historical Review XXXIX, no. CLIV (1924): 211, doi:10.1093/ehr/xxxix.cliv.206.

[5] “Calico Printing." Scientific American 41, no. 25 (1879): 401. http://www.jstor.org/stable/26072386.